Tataouine ksour, Chenini and Matmata from Djerba

Between Djerba and the desert lies a land of arid hills, perched Berber villages and fortified granaries: ksour country. In one day from the island you can see Ksar Ouled Soltane, Chenini and Matmata. It is the richest cultural excursion in southern Tunisia; here is how it goes.

The ksour: granaries turned monuments

A ksar (plural ksour) is a fortified communal granary. Semi-nomadic families stored grain, oil and dates there in vaulted cells called ghorfas, stacked on several levels around a courtyard. Ksar Ouled Soltane, about twenty kilometres south-east of Tataouine, is the most spectacular: two courtyards and ghorfas on four levels, linked by external stairs. Ksar Hadada, north of Tataouine, served as a set for “The Phantom Menace”; part of it is now in ruins, another part has been restored.

Chenini, the village clinging to the mountain

About fifteen kilometres west of Tataouine, Chenini is layered along a rocky ridge. Houses are dug into the rock and closed by stone façades; at the top, a ruined ksar and, below, a white mosque with a leaning minaret. The village is still inhabited; you explore it on foot along steep paths. Bring good shoes and water.

Matmata, the troglodyte houses

On the way back north, Matmata is famous for its vertically dug dwellings: a large circular pit serves as a courtyard, with rooms carved into its walls. Cool in summer and mild in winter, some are still lived in. Several houses can be visited, and one, converted into a hotel, was the set for Luke Skywalker’s home in “Star Wars”.

Distances from Djerba

• Houmt Souk to Tataouine: about 130 km via the El Kantara causeway and Medenine, 2 to 2.25 hours.
• Tataouine to Ksar Ouled Soltane: about 20 km.
• Tataouine to Chenini: about 18 km.
• Chenini to Matmata: about 100 km, 1.5 to 1.75 hours.
• Matmata to Houmt Souk: about 120 km via Gabès or Mareth, then Jorf and the ferry to Ajim; 2 to 2.5 hours.

The full loop is close to 400 km: a long day, leaving around 7 am and returning in the early evening.

Typical route

1. Early morning: departure from the hotel, crossing to Medenine.
2. Morning: Ksar Ouled Soltane (or Ksar Hadada), then Chenini.
3. Lunch in Chenini or Tataouine.
4. Afternoon: Matmata and its troglodyte houses.
5. Return to Djerba by the Jorf ferry or the causeway.

Tips

• Spring and autumn are the best seasons; in summer leave early and bring a hat and water.
• Visits to inhabited houses are made with courtesy: a small tip is customary.
• Tataouine market (Monday and Thursday) and its “gazelle horn” pastries deserve a tasty stop.

Douiret and Guermessa, the other perched villages

If you have more time or sleep in Tataouine, Douiret and Guermessa complement Chenini: the same troglodyte houses lined along the ridge, the same white mosques, but far fewer visitors. Douiret, partly restored, helps you understand how a Berber mountain village was organised; Guermessa offers one of the finest panoramas in the region.

The Star Wars settings

Ksar Hadada served as the slave quarters of Mos Espa in “The Phantom Menace”, and a troglodyte house in Matmata was the Lars family home. The very name of the planet Tatooine comes from Tataouine. Fans will enjoy it; others will simply discover authentic places whose beauty cinema only borrowed.

Sleeping over

For a gentler pace, the loop can be split in two: a night in Tataouine or in a troglodyte house in Matmata, then on to Douz or Ksar Ghilane the next day. This two or three day option turns a long day into a true tour of the south.

With 3H Travel

Our one-day Ksour and Matmata excursion runs with a driver and hotel pick-up; it can be combined with Douz or Ksar Ghilane over two or three days. See our tours of southern Tunisia and our Djerba to Sahara guide.